Home Today's Paper Most Popular Video Gallery Photo Gallery
Subscription Blog Signin Register
Logo
Monday, September 24, 2018 06:48:37 AM
Follow Us On: Facebook Twitter Twitter Twitter Twitter

Home by the Sea: Skagen, a forever inspiration for artists and writers

Skagen, in the northernmost tip of Denmark, is an oasis of calm, filled with pretty yellow houses and rugged seascapes that seem straight out of Hans Christian Andersen's fairy tales

Skagen, in the northernmost tip of Denmark, is an oasis of calm, filled with pretty yellow houses and rugged seascapes that seem straight out of Hans Christian Andersen's fairy tales
photo by

By
13th-Oct-2017       
Comments
Share your thought
Post a comment »
Read all () »

Lakshmi Sharath :
The sand particles come flying in, stinging my face and piercing my skin as the boisterous gale hurls small pebbles in my direction. The howling of the winds is drowned by the hysterical waves. I turn my gaze towards the oceans that are putting on a spectacular show, bordering between violent passion and seething fury. There are two of them, tinged in shades of blue and grey separated by a mere sliver of a sandbar.
The waves collide and lash at each other and the air brims with a briny mist. I stand atop a hill on the northernmost tip of Denmark. I am at Grenen in the heart of Jutland Peninsula, where the North Sea, referred to as Skagerrak, meets the Kattegat, drained by the Baltic Sea. Standing here on the spit, I am overwhelmed by a gamut of emotions as I watch a seal tossed around by the angry, excited waves.
The sandy beaches of Grenen with its tempestuous waves have been the fascination of many an impressionist painter from Skagen, the northernmost sea side town, located barely 5 km from here. Shaped like a bough of a tree that veers away from the mainland, Grenen is referred to as ‘the branch’ and it makes you feel like you are on the top of Denmark. Even more iconic than Grenen is the Sandornen or the sand worm, a tractor that takes you uphill to this spit called Skaggens Odde, which runs for over 30 km.
If Grenen takes you into a world of storms and shipwrecks, Skagen is an oasis of calm, filled with pretty yellow houses, rugged seascapes, buried churches and towering lighthouses that seems straight out of Hans Christian Andersen's fairy tales. No wonder the author called it home briefly.
There is something distinctly special about the fishing town, called The Scaw and pronounced as ‘Skayen.’ I feel like a traveller lost in the annals of time. The quaint fishing harbour with its red warehouses add to the romantic aura and old-world charm. The balmy breeze carries with it the salts of the sea. Bicycles whiz past lanes filled with half-timbered homes painted in a distinct shade of yellow and with sloping red roofs. Picket fences line lush gardens.
It is a riot of colours everywhere. Walking around town, I learn that Skagen, which is also known for a brand of watches by the same name, has also inspired the rest of Denmark to paint their homes with a distinct golden hue (the famous ‘Skagen yellow’).
But more than that, it is the bewitching light that blinds me, adding a luminous texture to the landscape, heightening its tones and making it look straight out of a painting.
A group of impressionist painters who stumbled upon this town a couple of centuries ago were lured by the unique light and they settled here, capturing vignettes of Skagen. The Skagen painters, as they were called, included Anna and Michael Archer,  P S Kroyer and the poet, Holger Drachmann. Their paintings and poems slowly put Skagen on Denmark's tourism map.
At the Skagen Museum, the town comes alive on canvas. I gaze at dramatic seascapes, portraits of fishermen, women by the beaches and life by the ocean. Every painting is a slice of life as seen by these painters. Later, I lunch at the century-old Brondums Hotel, a landmark of sorts, that has housed Queen Christina and Andersen. It was in the laundry of the hotel that the Impressionists started their first studio, and, today, it houses the Skagen Museum.
Next on my agenda is the restored home of the Archers, now a museum filled with paintings of idyllic landscapes. But I am more tempted by the verdant garden filled with fruit trees. I laze in a chair, basking in the comforting sunlight.
Afterwards, we drive through the lanes of Old Skagen towards remote beaches and onwards to Ruths Hotel, which opened a century ago. As I wander aimlessly, I trace the journeys of Inspector Kurt Wallender from the crime series penned by Swedish author Henning Mankell. It was here that the fictional detective had come to soothe his troubled conscience after having killed a man during the course of a case. It was through his story that I had first been introduced to Skagen, long before travel guides did. Now, I could finally have a sense of the peace that he had so coveted.
Finally, I head to the harbour where the red cabins stand as a stark contrast to the blue waters. Flirtatious and lusty, the winds gently play with my hair and caress my face. They tease the waves and shepherd the clouds across the sky. The magical light casts an intoxicating spell on me as I stand there, lost to the world. n
        (Lakshmi Sharath is a travel writer based out of Bengaluru)

Tariff
Add Rate

News Archive

Inside The New Nation

Editorial »

Attack on Iran`s elite guards


IRANIAN Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei accused US-backed Gulf Arab states of carrying out a shooting attack on a military parade that killed 25 people, almost half of them members of the country's elite Revolutionary Guards. Khamenei ordered security forces to bring to justice those responsible for one of the ...

Sports »

Bertens defeats Tomljanovic to secure Korea Open win


AFP, Seoul :Kiki Bertens defeated Australia's Ajla Tomljanovic in the Korea Open final on Sunday, securing her third WTA Tour singles title of the season to continue her career-best year.The second-seeded Bertens came back from break down in the deciding set to defeat the Australian in two hours and 22 ...

International »

World leaders gather at UN under threat from unilateralism


AP, United Nations :With rising unilateralism challenging its very existence, the United Nations convenes its annual meeting of world leaders Monday and will try once more to tackle problems together as a community of nations, addressing threats ranging from Mideast conflicts to the effects of global warming - and also ...

City »

National Professor Anisuzzaman seen among others at the cover unveiling ceremony of a book marking the 80th birthday of eminent writer Hasan Azizul Haq organised by Bangladesh Culture at Jatiya Press Club yesterday.


Entertainment »

Nazira Mou to debut in film with Indraneil


Sheikh Arif Bulbon :Viewers’ choice popular actress Nazira Mou has been acting in small screen for many days. She got many offers for acting in big screen. But she did not agree to act due to disliking stories and her roles in those works. When Mou got the proposal from ...

Editorial »

CPJ reveals weakness of journalists by appealing to President


THE Committee to Protect Journalists (CPJ) in a letter to the Bangladesh President has expressed deep concern about the Digital Security Act 2018, which was passed by the Parliament on September 18, and urged him to return it to Parliament for a review afresh.   If this legislation was allowed to ...

International »

Modi faces calls for resignation over French jet deal


Reuters, New delhi :Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi faced calls for his resignation over allegations of corruption in a military jet deal with France after former French president Francois Hollande was quoted as saying New Delhi had influenced the choice of a local partner.Indian political parties have been gunning for ...

International »

US official in Russia probe suggested taping Trump: Report


Reuters, Washington: The US official who oversees the federal investigation into Russia's role in the 2016 U.S. election suggested secretly recording President Donald Trump last year and recruiting Cabinet members to invoke a constitutional amendment to remove him from the White House, the New York Times reported on Friday.Deputy Attorney ...

Football »

Tabarez renews with Uruguay until Qatar World Cup


AFP, Montevideo :Despite failing health the veteran coach Oscar Tabarez has signed a four-year contract extension to remain at the Uruguay helm until the end of the 2022 World Cup in Qatar, the South American country's football federation said on Friday.Tabarez, who suffers from a nerve disorder that forces him ...

City »

People of the Shia community brought out a Tazia procession in the city on the occasion of Holy Ashura. The snap was taken from Azimpur area on Friday.


Entertainment »

Rishi Kapoor, Juhi Chawla to reunite for a comedy The film will reunite Kapoor and Chawla 22 years after their last film 'Daraar'


Frequent collaborators Rishi Kapoor and Juhi Chawla will reunite for a family comedy produced by Sony Pictures International and MacGuffin Pictures, reported Variety.The untitled film will be co-written by Hitesh Bhatia and Supratik Sen (Parched, Kai Po Che!), and directed by Bhatia. The film will reunite Kapoor and Chawla 22 ...

Editorial »

Rohingya crisis: UN is helpless without active cooperation of int'l community


THE United Nations was established with a mission to stop brutality and promotion of human rights across the globe but at present is apparently helpless to stop the Myanmar military atrocity on Rohingya ethnic community. Though the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights, the ...

Cricket »

India rout Pakistan by eight wickets in Asia Cup


AFP, Dubai :India crushed Pakistan by eight wickets in their long-awaited Asia Cup match which failed to live up to its hype in Dubai on Wednesday.Pace spearhead Bhuvneshwar Kumar (3-15) and part time off-spinner Kedar Jadhav (3-23) sent Pakistan, who won the toss and batted, collapsing to just 162 all ...

Football »

We aim to play SAFF U-16 Women's final: Choton


Bangladesh U-18 national women's football team head coach Golam Rabanni Choton said they aim to play the final of the SAFF U-18 Women's Championship which is scheduled to be held from September 28 to October 7 in Thimpu, Bhutan.He was speaking at a pre-departure press conference on Thursday at the ...

International »

US-North Korea relations making 'tremendous progress': Trump


President Donald Trump on Wednesday said US relations with North Korea are making "tremendous progress" from the days before his presidency when the two countries appeared close to "going to war."Trump said a recent letter from North Korean leader Kim Jong Un confirmed the positive track, which he said has ...

 
Items that you save may be read at any time on your computer, iPad, iPhone or Android devices.
 
Are you new to our website? Do you have already an account at our website?
Create An Account Log in here
Email this news to a friend or like someone
Email:
Write a comment to this news